Do you need a new roof?

The roof and guttering must be kept in a good condition to enable a property to remain weatherproof. Ineffective covering can lead to expensive work to the underlying timbers and any decorative finishes, which will deteriorate rapidly in damp conditions. Different roof coverings have varying life spans. The materials used, the quality of the workmanship and the exposure to the elements will all be contributing factors to the effective life of the roof. There are some that last for a hundred years or more, while others deteriorate after 40 years, some are only guaranteed for 20 years reliable cover. You may only realise that a repair is needed on the roof when ceiling stains are noticed in a room after rainfall. This indicates that water is leaking into the roof space. Always repair damage as soon as possible to stop further rainfall damaging the fabric of the house.

Checking Tiled and Slate Roofs From the roof space inside
If the inside of the roof is unlined, check for cracks showing daylight as this will indicate areas needing closer inspection. Shine a torch on the timbers and check for water staining. If stains are found on the timber, try to trace the source of the stain. It is useful to inspect the inner roof space after a long period of rain, as the source of a leak is easier to trace. Slate does deteriorate with age so check for hairline cracks by looking for staining on the tiles.

From ground level : Outside, check the whole roof by inspecting at ground level. It is easy to spot a disjointed or slipped slate against the regular lines of slates. If there is a change to the colour of a section, it could be newly exposed and therefore un-weathered. Look for a powdery or flaky surface, known as delaminating, which shows deteriorating slate, which is no longer doing its job effectively. Look at the ridge on the skyline and check for gaps in the mortar joints. Check for the state of the flashings at abutments and around chimney stacks. Check for fallen pieces of mortar. If the roof is too high to allow you comfortable access by ladder for a closer inspection, use binoculars to scan the surface as carefully as possible, from all angles - front, back and sides where applicable.

At the roof level : If you are using a ladder, always make sure it is set up correctly and long enough - at least 3 rungs above the gutter. Always work with someone standing nearby when you are working at a height. Once at the roof level, only access the surface of the roof using a roof ladder. This is a purpose built ladder that has wheels to allow you to push it up the sloping roof without dislodging or damaging the slates. When the wheels reach the top of the roof ridge, by turning the ladder over a hook securely lodges on the ridge.

This should only be carried out by a competent person it is recommended that you seek professional help for the above procedure

Checking a Felt Roof

Most flat roofs consist of a timber decking nailed to the roof joists covered with three layers of roofing felt. They are often used on house extensions and garages. Using a layer of proprietary chipping compound, such as limestone, gravel or granite on top of the layers of felt, strengthens the surface further. The idea is for the surface to reflect rather than absorb sunlight, thus helping to protect the felt.

From inside : Check for water staining on the ceiling as this will indicate dampness getting through. Felt covering can deteriorate with age and become porous. This can result in the surface becoming uneven, buckling or cracking in areas. On a particularly wet day, check for drips of water seeping through the surface. It is useful to inspect the ceiling after a long period of rain, as the source of a leak is easier to trace. If stains are found, try tracing the source of the stain as it is not always directly overhead. Water can penetrate the roof surface and travel between the roof and ceiling level before finding its way through the ceiling.

Outside at ground level : Outside, check the roof by inspecting at ground level. Check the apron, which is the area where the edge of the front of the roof does not meet a wall. Here strips of felt are secured over facia boards, sealing the edges of the roof. If there is a change to the colour of a section, it could be newly exposed and therefore un-weathered. If the roof is too high to allow you comfortable access by ladder for a closer inspection, use binoculars to scan the surface as carefully as possible, from all angles - front, back and sides where applicable.

At the roof level : If you are using a ladder, always make sure it is set up correctly and long enough - at least 3 rungs above the gutter. Always work with someone standing near by. This should only be carried out by a competent person it is recommended that you seek professional help for the above procedure  Once at the roof level, only access the surface of the roof if you are sure that the structure is safe. If there are signs of dips in the roof or puddles, it could be due to the deck or the structural joists having deteriorated or perished. If you have no confidence in the strength of the roof taking your weight, use scaffold boards across the roof in order to spread the load when you walk across it.

Checking a chimney

Chimney stacks should be checked regularly for any potential problems. By keeping an eye on their condition or change of condition, repairs should be carried out as soon as they are required, preventing further dampness penetrating.

From inside: Mortar or flashing can deteriorate with age and be in need of repair or replacement. It is useful to inspect the ceiling after a long period of rain, as the source of a leak is easier to trace. If stains are found, try tracing the source of the stain as it is not always directly overhead. Check inside the roof space for signs of dampness. Water can penetrate the roof surface and travel between the roof and ceiling level before finding its way through the ceiling. Water staining on the ceiling or on the chimney breast walls will indicate dampness getting through. Dampness here indicates problems with the flashings causing the water to penetrate and run down the walls. If there is water staining inside a room near a fireplace lower down the walls, then the problem could be due to the flue and the fireplace being completely sealed. Dampness inside the home can sometimes indicate problems associated with the chimney stacks.

Outside at ground level: Check the roof by inspecting at ground level. If chimney pots are broken, cracked or missing they are easy to spot. Only the edges of the flaunching can be seen, but check for deterioration or cracks in the mortar holding the pots in position. Use binoculars to scan the surface around the stack as carefully as possible, from all angles - front, back and sides where applicable. Look for mortar missing from between bricks on the stack itself. Check that the stack is still in a vertical position and not leaning. Look out for bulges in masonry or blown rendering or pebbledash.

At the roof level: If you are using a ladder, always make sure it is set up correctly and long enough - at least 3 rungs above the gutter. Always work with someone standing near by when you are working at a height. Once at the roof level, only access the surface of the roof using a roof ladder. This is a purpose built ladder that has wheels to allow you to push it up the sloping roof without dislodging or damaging the slates. When the wheels reach the top of the roof ridge, by turning the ladder over a hook securely lodges on the ridge. The chimney stacks could be too high to work on from a roof ladder and there is chimney scaffolding available which is specially designed for this type of work. This type of scaffolding is also useful for more difficult jobs like removing and replacing pots on tall chimneys.

This should only be carried out by a competent person it is recommended that you seek professional help for the above procedure

Flashing

Flashing is used around the base of the stack to seal and weatherproof the stack to the roof surface. It is also used where a roof meets a wall or around a dormer window. It can be a mortar, tiled or metal flashing, such as lead, zinc or copper. Metal flashing is available in sections, made for use around a chimney stack or can be purchased in rolls, of varying widths and materials.

Guttering

The purpose of guttering is to efficiently channel rain water from the roof towards a downpipe which in turn carries it down to ground level and then into the drainage system. This system helps to stop the walls of the house becoming saturated and causing problems with dampness.